Yes, the website here actually engaged in southern England, shows beautiful pictures of this wonderful country and gives many travel tips. But we, the creators of enjoysouthengland.com, visit also other areas. And so it has ended up 2017 for two weeks to Scotland for a first impression us in late summer for something. Here is our travel report to: this route:
We wanted to give ourself a rough overview. Therefore we planned the journey as comprehensive as possible and also with areas, which are not always quite a large tourist hotspot. So we spent a day in the “Borders” south of Edinburgh, but also in some other special corners of Scotland. Unfortunately there was no time to visit the high North and the many islands – in particular the Outer Hebrides. But we want to have in the future still much ahead of us.
For this you can join us in Edinburgh for the Royal Military tattoo, visit Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, experience the unique boat lift “Falkirk Wheel” in action, see the famous Glencoe Valley in a very special light mood, have plenty of time for Eilean Donan Castle, on the Isle of Skye to find hidden beautiful places, discover a part of the “North Coast 500” route with Loch Ewe, visit Inverness and Perth, visiting castles and a distillery, hiking to waterfalls and impressive places you find quite by accident and wonderful landscapes – both on the coast and inland. At the end of Edinburgh and in particular South Queensferry with the powerful forth bridge attracts again. All in all an incredible mass of impressions, thousands of photos, and a time, we do not want to miss.
Come on with us on a special journey!
Edinburgh Royal Military Tattoo
Arriving with the plane in Edinburgh at noon and heading for our B&B we immediately wnt into the nearby city centre. Heading for the Newtown we passed the Book Festival and had great views of the hills back in both directions. A Ferris wheel was built at Princess Street Garden, from which you have beautiful views over the rooftops of the city.
Next we went into the old town up to the Castle and behind the Victoria Terrace, where the “Oink” calls for his pulled pork sandwich on haggis.
Visiting the Grassmarket and The Vennel, down the Cowgate, up St. Mary’s Street and back to the Royal Mile, over the North Bridge to market Street and Princess Street Gardens and the Haymarket – we spent a great time!
Finally we had tickets for the Royal Military Tattoo in the Edinburgh Castle. The show of 1.5 hours was great: 1,000 musicians and dancers for 8,600 spectators – that’s a rate!
With our rental car we discovered “The borders”. First stop was “Scott’s view” overlooking the River Tweed and then the Wallace statue in the middle of the forest. A beautiful countryside, which is very reminiscent of our beloved southern England.
The romantic “Dryburgh Abbey” was nearly empty of visitors and a real tranquilant place.
In Melrose, a very nice spot, a small inconspicuous door leads into the Priorwood Garden, dominated by his fantastic fruit trees. The apples were almost exactly ripe and absoltely irresistible…
Passing the ruins of Melrose Abbey we reach the Harmony Garden a little down the street a little furthe the River. Heading back the two mountains “Eildon Hills” are dominating the scenery. Taking the great road (B6360) to the sadly disused but still impressive “Leaderfoot viaduct” with a short walk there we reach finally the friendly town of Peebles. Here at dinner time is the perfect firt chance to test the Scottish National “Haggis“. But not pure, a chicken supreme stuffed with haggis – coming with a whisky pepper sauce, quite excellent crunchy vegetables and mashed potatoes. Be sure to try!
Starting in Peebles we went along the A7 through the beautiful valley of the River Tweed (Travel Tip: A canoe trip on the River Tweed must be a dream!).
Our first destination is the “Falkirk wheel“, which lifts up the canal boats from the low-lying forth and Clyde canal 11 meters above to the Union Canal, saving an endless locks installation. Once there caught us an intense mist, which was over but as soon as it came. Soon we had best weather for experiencing this unique boat lift in action.
Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park
Passing Stirling we now reach the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, where our way leads us across the great Duke Pass to the pier of Loch Katrine. There we enjoyed onboard the “Sir Walter Scott” a boat trip on this beautiful Lake, which will certainly soon lose its charm by the ever approaching large-scale deforestation.
After the boat trip we are the “three hole forest drive” driven, a rustic Fort road and the planned hike up the mountain “Ben Venue” left out due to the already mentioned deforestation (in Canada you would call it “clear cut”!).
For this we went then Turk to the dam road car park in Brig (hard-to-find, there not signposted) and have a little walk to the dam (Glen Finneck reservoir) made – in an area such as on the high mountain in the Austrian Alps.
Our accommodation was in the not-too-distant Strathyre and we enjoyed dinner in the Inn’s charge. Somewhat overwhelmed waiter, for a nice beer selection and class food – plus good live music at the bar at the end.
After a few snapshots of the fishermen tranquil Strathyre started then – and we are not far. As a shield to the grave of Rob Roy has namely and also if the eponymous movie from 1995 that is of course a good reason to drop him. He is buried in the cemetery of the small church of Balquhidder, the tomb is easy to find.
An overall beautiful peaceful place in this valley. If only not again and again these large-scale deforestation, which extremely tarnish the overall picture…
Continue on the A85 North. A piece after the Lochearnhead and before the turnoff to killin a magnificent old viaduct of railway that once ran through the Valley on the other side is located.
A short detour took us then to killin, where a wide waterfall in the middle of the village by an ancient stone bridge is crossed.
Back at the lone gas station at the intersection, we discovered that one there not can pay with credit cards (the German PIN-code is not accepted in the UK), but this very well with the EC card (Maestro). What a happiness, because automatic petrol stations encounter here then but more often.
Continue towards Loch Lomond it passed then the falls of Falloch, from a small parking lot (visited pretty well!) are reachable within a few minutes. Nice!
At Ardlui we reached the then much Sung Loch Lomond, which is still above narrow and manageable.
Along the shore road was a rather tedious task that takes a long time South – with much tourist traffic and quite narrow curves. With a few photo stops, it goes to Luss, was described as a nice village. Well, overcrowded and overrated could be described better it.
We look to to leave Loch Lomond and go north about A817 in the Valley of the Loch long and on the rather narrow and very, very, very hunched slope quickly again. After a short stop and unavailing afternoon tea at the Inn in the village of Arrochar (the worstest service ever!) we continued on the A83. A short photo stop at an old bridge below the ‘Rest and Be Thankful Commemorative Stone’ of the butter bridge belongs to.
Finally, we reach the Loch Fyne, where we visit the Crarae garden. Which fortunately open until the onset of darkness – early closing time makes the staff, but you can like to freely move there and should you like to throw the 6.50 GBP in the usual box if necessary, if no one there is. So, we can enjoy the garden almost as only guests quietly. It is a pity that the rhododendrons at this time of year is no longer bloom, which are a huge highlight of the garden.
Then it goes towards Inveraray accommodation – the place is small, but very nice.
The breakfast with a very nice oblique humor of blessed Maggie (very reasonably priced rooms!) it started to rain, what should stop until early afternoon. An intense, but very fine rain.
We went first to the Inveraray Castle with the accompanying garden and have then taken the northern route to Oban. Coming down from the mountain on the A819 comes then left beautiful ruins of Kilchurn Castle (ideal for morning sun shots!) in the view. Unfortunately pretty shrouded…
The Loch Awe a bit umrundend we reach the Saint Conan’s Kirk, a great Church from the 1920s, the whole different looks than you might imagine. Very, very worthy of visit, even with cloisters!
Interesting, by the way, that here in Scotland the churches often rather than Church, probes Scandinavian as “Kirk” (in Swedish, it says “Kyrka” on Norwegian and Danish “Circe”) are described.
The tea in the Church-owned tea room have we left out and are instead next to Oban and the same even further up at Arduaine garden further South. That right next to it the “Loch Melfort Hotel” the spot for sunsets is with his Bistro, by the way!
The garden itself has beautiful rhododendrons in spring, now he was still quite exciting and beautifully green. Very rewarding! And also open until sunset – we were also this time again almost alone there.
On the way back to Oban we could insert more photo stops in Kilmelford, above Loch nan Druimnean, because the weather was now sunny.
Oban itself is considered the “capital of seafood”, accordingly, there are a variety of cin a seafood restaurant. Unfortunately not a single one which had more without having to book free seats (reserve at least a day in advance, the “waterfront fish House” would be our favorite), so we went simple bar on the port to scallops and fish cakes and whitebait in the fish. The latter was the rest OK really very good. For this, it was extremely reasonably priced!
A wonderful breakfast lets with much fresh fruit from the buffet of the day very well start. The weather also declared on us so we start with the drive to the North. First stop is Castle Stalker or the viewpoints there.
Go to the bridge of Ballaculish, where we will start a tour to Loch Leven. At the very end of the Lake in Kinlochmore, we Park the car and walk to the grey mare’s tail waterfalls as well as to a viewpoint.
On the other shore of the Loch Leven’s goes back to Glencoe and then in the eponymous Valley. This is the highlight of the day and we drive through the Glencoe Southeast below the Loch Tulla and return, etc. past the ski resort (!) – all with constantly changing weather conditions.
Finally, we look to the small waterfalls of Clachaig falls West of Loch Achtriochtan. There we got the recommendation to go to the waterfall near Loch Etive by an extra lingering locals, which was much more impressive (he probably meant the “Skyfall“). From weather and due to time constraints we thereof but apart, instead photographed a small lake (Torren Lochan) on the side of the road to Glencoe and made finally a small evening walk around the Glencoe Lochan (a further Lake).
Quickly then went to Fort William to the quarter and in the evening to the Indians in the city. Who has a not quite unnette pedestrian zone, played in the just the local student Chapel of the pipes and drums for an hour – pretty good, by the way!
Food was good and the quarter worked it so as the old House of the ancient grandma – at least smelled and felt like. A huge pretty empty rooms, but very clean. Just too expensive for the measly breakfast!
It was also – unambitioniert. But sleep well we have so it went to early start in dry weather with some sunshine the “Neptune’s staircase”, a flight of 8 locks of the Caledonian Canal. We were lucky and it was channelled through just a big sailing boat. Unfortunately, the slope is not as steep as in devizes and so we could unfortunately not good photograph.
Further down at the train station flows the Canal in the hole and here we could do again a few images – also by the shipwreck on the shores of the Loch.
Since it started to pay now but we headed further on the way to Glenfinnan. There not far from the monument (NT for Scotland) is an asphalt road by a second small (free) parking lot back into it, which leads to the famous Glenfinnan viaduct. Punctually at 10:44 am (and therefore 10 minutes earlier than described above) the “Hogwarts express” drove the Jacobite on the bridge, no. We were in time fortunately there with a whole mass of other onlookers, which are all gathered in the pouring rain.
Hardly, the train was over, even the rain ended. We take this opportunity for photos of the Glenfinnan monument and drove the main road then in significantly better weather avoiding on a small side street (B8008). Some detour, but absolutely rewarding given the beautiful bays and white sand beaches!
Our intermediate Mallaig was described as not quite so great, turned out nice but as a right. The “Bakehaus” with the Nice German-speaking researcher, in which we have a great and even really outstanding was the best fruit scones ever (!) were given.
Then, it was a really simple and rustic car ferry, one would expect more of a river on the “CalMac” (a ship of the ferry company Caledonian MacBrayne) for the trip to the Isle of Skye – in our case.
On the ride, the Sun came out correctly and on Skye, we had beautiful sunshine with a thrilling sky.
Isle of Skye
By Armadale we then drove north, decided then to turn around and the small side street after Ord, Tokavaig and Tarskavaig (and back) to go. An ideal choice given the wonderful photo places.
We took almost 2 hours and then drove with a further intermediate stop on the old bridge from Sligachan to Portree to our quarters. Very fine!
Not in order but that was Portree of tourists crowded and all of the restaurants also. You do not take reservations and there are long queues of people waiting for a table. We all don’t do this safely! After a long search we bought us then just a Moroccan Couscous and a red-pepper humus with bread and olives at the co-op, we have then eaten in peace and quiet in the B & B.
The night was rainy and at breakfast, it is still always wet from the sky. For this is (almost) full scottish breakfast with one of the best hams ever and great frankfurters a real treat.
Hardly, the rain has stopped, we want to go – coming but only a few hundred meters far from the beach, where we first insert a morning photo session with a short walk.
It is for the first time really meet the A855 North, where our first photo stop at Loch Fada is very successful – we also the midges (mosquitoes). We stayed so far is almost completely spared by the latter.
On the climb to the old man passed over’s of Storr (the characteristic column of the local mountain of Portree) with a hopelessly overcrowded parking lot in the pouring rain and also the bride’s fallen so much waterfalls in the truest sense of the word in the water.
For this it was shortly afterwards again dry (“if you don’t like the weather just wait ten minutes”) and so we could visit the Lealt falls in this great deep Green Valley from above, as the old kieselguhr-mine. Tip If you have some time: A hike from there to the hole Liuravay through the Valley in the inland areas, the old way of the miners.
Even a trip to the very overestimated Mealtrock waterfall near the kilt rock and then we were in Staffin on the beach where we enjoyed our brought tea and biscuits.
Next we went over a narrow (and narrow single track here is narrow – with dodging!) Road are transverse through the mountains with a correct pass road, great views and two cars that fell into a hole, that a wheel was upwards.
After many photo stops, we were then in Uig (behind a bus, drive to a road down is super, which really opens the way!), where’s the A87 southward went back down. Over the A850’s went west to Dunvegan (local hotel is really fell out of the time!) and continue on the small B884 single track but not little-populated country through Although scattered.
It takes a long time and finally a magnificent scenery on the West coast of Skye is reached. Neist Point, a destination of many tourists here. Because it is soon 16: 00 we find parking but wonderful and March around 20 minutes downhill and uphill (well fortified way!) to the lighthouse. With something far detour, we reach also the cliffs below and take our pictures in the most beautiful light. Wonderful!
Back in the car, it’s shortly before 18: 00 and we try in Dunvegan, in the lovely (great Setup!) “Old School restaurant” a table to get – unfortunately yesterday evening also next to impossible! Almost we resign ourselves thus, in Portree only to go food just before 9 o’clock in the evening, as us on the way back a sign for the “stone Inn” is striking. The five miles extra we drive like, and voilá: A nice old Inn at the Quay in the most beautiful evening sun and a table for us there too!
Goodbye, there was out there still a gorgeous sunset before 45 minutes home after it was the Portree.
The morning starts sunny and warm, what but unfortunately so not should continue. Our way takes us first across the Isle of Skye (B885) after Bracadale and thence to Talisker Bay (Yes, that is the whisky). At the end of the usual narrow street you parked himself on the side and is approx. 20 min. very nice walk to the actual beach. Stony and Sandy, beautiful and worth seeing! The couple that spend the night in the tent there, made it absolutely right.
On the way back we stopped by briefly for the famous Talisker Distillery, weren’t in there but – the weather was simply too good, we wanted to continue.
On the main road it went back then far to the South, where we are then diverted to Broadford, to drive towards Elgol. The dilapidated church with the beautiful cemetery on the way was the Lake worth seeing, besides less and then there were the only thing a nice photo opportunity.
We opted for the reverse and discovered a lonely bench by accident. That was our tea (purchase of the thermos in Oban has more than paid off!) and croissants by the breakfast as a small snack.
A tip (by Stephan Goldmann from one of his books) was still the road to Kylerhea (pronounced: Keila Rhie) with only unspectacular start, developed then but to a full-blown Paß and High Alpine road. Magnificent route, fantastic views – in short, the road you should be in position necessarily.
At the end, the mini ferry (max. 6 cars and 12 persons) on the Mainland is reached. We did not, but drove the mountain a piece up to a forest parking lot, from which reached an animal observation hut (“hide”) 1 mile away. Great views down the Bay accompanied the way.
It went back this great road again back and then to Kyleakin right next to the big Skye bridge. The latter was opened only in 1995, and until then, the main ferry service from the Mainland arrived here in Kyleakin. The town is since then to insignificance, but somehow quite fond.
Over the Skye bridge (which since 2004 no bridge toll is charged for) it goes with great views on the Mainland and on to Dornie on the Loch Duich. There is the famous Eilean Donan Castle, which should occupy us throughout the evening. Hunger drove us right at 6 o’clock to the food in Dornie hotel, that is ureinfach, but an outstanding good “Cullen skink” (a thick fish soup, similar to the sea chowder in Scotland) had with endless smoked fish insert.
Thus strengthened, we spent the remaining evening until twenty to ten with photographing the Eilean Dunan Castle.
Went first it briefly to the South, to photograph the mountain chain of the “five sisters” – what was however moderate to light completely uninteresting. Only a stranded fishing boat was photogenic enough… Rather, it went right back to the North, past the Castle and then on single-lane road through great area to Plockton. This is a super nice fishing village with great pubs, where we stayed like longer – at least over night -. Unfortunately, only a detailed tour went with trip to the station and still under renovation Duncraig Castle.
Then wonderful, the road runs along the A890 over many miles on the wooded shores of Loch Carron. We switch to the A896 and wanted to take our tea on a small wooded picnic area on Lake. Unfortunately, the only bank was busy. So it went – Fortunately! Because as we passed hole Dughail after a fantastic Road shortly before Shieldag on a small lake, where we found a wonderful Platzerl on a stone on the banks of the river just before the Lake. Nice we enjoyed barely tea and the scones purchased in Plockton.
Went further it Shieldag past, still beautiful on the upper Loch Torridon along and then into the Glen Torridon. This is produced quite different, really barren against the previously seen by the landscape. Again single-lane road it goes together with many cyclists (it was a cycling race held on the road) and difficult overtaking after Kinlochewe and then the A832 continues northward, lock on the great Maree along. The landscape – just from Gairloch – is always special: barren mountains and moorland, and again and again in between deep blue lakes in a colour that you can imagine so intensively hardly.
Finally, we reach Poolewe, our today’s goal. Here we visit the Inverewe garden of the NTS, is open until 21: 00 fortunately also – unless one is until 17: 00, in there or knows the open door, you also get out comes from the. A visit is absolutely permissible after the closing of the cash area, you should drop money into the donation box. The garden itself has a very nice unusual and elongated walled garden (with a side of Loch Ewe) and a nice forest area. The Rhods – which often only may bloom mid/end up here – are the highlight of the garden in the spring. Overall a nice evening walk.
So we then continue to our B & B “Oh da Thearnaidh” (the place between two descents), which by the way was the real House of Kay Mathieson – one of four Scottish students who stole the ‘stone of destiny’ from the Westminster Abbey in London 1950 Christmas and after Scotland brought back. Many are likely to know the film by 2008. A very nice house with Marie and Greg as two incredibly charming and attentive hosts, which justifies a further visit in any case. We have a great roof top room with mini kitchenette and views of the Loch Ewe.
Dinner was then (courtesy of our hosts in reserved) in the Poolewe hotel. It is already very noticeable here: Unlike in southern England there is hardly nice pubs, inns or arms, but above all hotels with bar and often Dining Room. However, the classic comfort and the charm of the ancient pubs of the South are missing, it’s all much easier. The food itself, however, fully comparable with.
Back in the quarter a lemon cake and a fruit loaf – waiting for us outside the wonderfully, we were just not so much!
We wake up to a wonderful night with views through the deep roof window on the Loch Ewe and the mountains behind it. Wonderful!
Breakfast plays all breakfast: Greg and Marie have raised are really charming hosts! With nice chat, a small farewell gift to us and from our side very much regret’s next for us. We want to take a boat trip despite not sunny weather, marine life centre decide but unfortunately against the trip by boat of the Gairloch, even though that would have been ideal. But go back we didn’t stop… So continues the A832 northwards with a stop at the beach of Guinard Bay up to Ullapool.
This is a not insignificant ferry terminal and actually there are even three providers of boat tours. It would be shut today but only a high speed boat and we didn’t. The girl was extremely helpful in the TIC (the official “tourist information centre”) and called another provider in surrounding villages, but were fully booked and the others are not shut because of the very strong wind. No matter, we have to bury the boat ride and went to bookshop Browse.
On the way back, we are first in the Lael forest Garden (has nothing to do with a garden, marked trails are easy) the Forestry Commission at a small waterfall hike been and then spontaneously our tea have not taken this picnic area, but ended up in a no kilometers away craft shop with Teeroom. Again, he was so nice and with a coffee machine great equipped that we have spontaneously chosen for a real afternoon coffee (urgut!) with Flapjack and two other goodies. Good choice!
Then it went to the Middle falls of Meshach at Corrieshalloch Gorge from the NTS. Access is free, but unfortunately the great suspension bridge for safety reasons has been disabled a few days earlier. So, no look at these super deep and narrow gorge was possible. We have nevertheless made a beautiful tour there and then from the other side a little through the bushes (actually a very easy access from the road) and approached as pretty good on the otherwise invisible actual waterfalls. Was cool!
However here in the area, is that you the really beautiful picture very tarnish the permanent clear cuts of forests.
Now it was in fairly murky weather the A835 towards Inverness. On the black water river in Garve, have we can very nicely captured the mood there and then further more have landed the road by chance at the Rogie falls. It was a beautiful way to the black water river, where the pretty impressive Rogie falls by a suspension bridge, as well as from the Bank are beautifully accessible from the parking lot. For us the most fantastic waterfalls, that we here in Scotland have seen!
A short futile search for an old bridge we broke off and went to Inverness in our neighbourhood. Very centrally located, only a 10-minute walk from the high street is reset in a nice quiet area and yet something we live very pleasant. It goes to the check Inn in the city for a tour and then some dinner. We were not using the very good recommendation, since there courts only against reservation (once again, so we have never seen anything in southern England!). Since we’ve been eating then just to (very authentic) Spain’s tasty tapas. Also very nice!
Between Inverness and Perth
After a good breakfast’s went along first a piece to the East on the B9006, as us right noticed a viaduct, the Culloden viaduct. We could not miss of course the, before we came to Cawdor (rather small town) and especially Cawdor Castle. Luckily we went until the weather through the Park and a piece of woodland trail along (Tip: there are several and quite long walks that begin all along a Valley – worth!), because in the castle in it, it started to pour out on.
Then it went by car across country, beautiful on small roads through a countryside according to Clunas and again, until we stumbled by chance on the mighty Dulsie bridge. At the nearby car park we took a walk led us down to the river – gorgeous!
On the A939 continued then very nicely to Grantown-on-Spey and a tea strengthened via the A95 to the A9. On this a long way by the Grampiens, a very lonely and repelling mountains followed by until we Killiecrankie at the bridge over the river Tummel a stroll to the nearby pedestrian bridge made (“Linn of Tummel trail”). It is a deep cut Valley, down wooded and beautiful.
At the parking lot, we then discovered a note on the Highland night held on the same evening. But later more. We drive the A827 still until the Queen’s view, where we have a great view of the Loch Tummel in a very special light had. Then, it finally went in our lodging in Pitlochry.
But we want on the Highland night. For this purpose, entered it the few hundred meters in the place where we we bought a quick snack at the Coop and then drove the car to the recreation ground, where the spectacle to be held. And as a special feature: who wanted was allowed to drive the car on the sports field (!) and enjoy the idea from this. It was said: on one side the natural Grandstand and on the other cars. Oblique!
The idea was cheap and quite nice with 7 pounds – the evening surprised almost full moon and cloudless sky with rising mist. A dream for photographers like us who more or less could move freely behind the car.
Finally it fell band behind the drum & pipes in the place and we enjoyed another beer in the Mike hotel’s friendly bar.
It was after a surprisingly good night despite right next door this railway line and an acceptable breakfast first just go to Pitlochry, in the next door this Moulin, where we made a short visit of the tiny brewery and with the Brewmaster (= mechanic = seller) briefly chatted. After all, 1,200 litres per week are produced that completely consumed by the two hotels that the brewery belongs.
But we wanted harder stuff than beer, so it went right to the opening at 10 o’clock to the Edradour Distillery, the smallest existing Scottish distillery (smaller is not, because by law, the equipment may be less). And she is the last one, which still uses it. 5 man wuppen the entire production. Currently, they double the emissions from 1 to 2 large barrels per day, by they are building a new facility next door to the 1:1 of the previous system. Opening should be end of 2017 and in 10 years – so long their whiskey stored at least – we know if it works.
We have a guided tour with tasting (at the beginning even!), which was really nice. At any time again – and the entire estate is simply wonderful!
Because us so well like we drive the whole area again at Queen’s view over Loch Tummel to end at Tummel bridge, there South through very different landscapes. Castle Menzies in the look that we visited (unspectacular, but somehow rewarding) spontaneously came unexpectedly and after recent rain in the beautiful sunshine and took our tea in the small tea-room.
Then we were also not far, because now we went through the very dear place Aberfeldy with its restored cinema from the 1930s in the Centre.
The A826 and A822 went then quickly South through beautiful countryside to Crieff and Drummond Castle. The castle itself is not to visit, but a famous formal garden that is reminiscent of Versailles. The most impressive were the 2 km-long tree-lined Avenue as access (sensational) and the castle in the most beautiful sunlight against the blue sky. The garden was great to see from above.
The trappings now greatly changed the landscape and is very slightly hilly and lovely, actually like southern England.
On the A85 went directly to Perth in the quarter. The city of Perth (pedestrian zone) had died completely. Our evening meal in the lovely Bothy was for lush: Cullen skink and haggis and scallops and a kind of pulled pork as beef Wellington.
Northeast of Edinburgh
A very good breakfast, a nice chat with our hosts and the Sun seem right – so the day begins. We leave Perth and adhere to the East.
First goal of the day is St. Andrews, that we drive on country roads. On the way there, we stop in Cupar, which is a not unnettes shopping town. Here, we wanted to get a tick tweezers, because which one has captured a little “friend” of us. The Pharmacy has so what, because you don’t need (!) it and wants to leave also no disinfectant. The Ironmonger has also no appropriate tools, we have a tick tweezers for dogs in the pet products business. Better than nothing! The immediate use is successful (also because the tick when touching away on its own).
Finally arrived at St Andrews we are greatly excited. A super lovely university town (here Kate and Prince William met while studying!), a very small little with their uni Campi Oxford remembered – but of course much less sophisticated. The remains of Castle and Cathedral are picturesque seaside and in the middle of the great main shopping street has just flair. It is well what’s going on, but not full, and certainly not hectic. It sits on the road, enjoying the sunshine – all super relaxed. This beautiful building, the city is worth a second visit in any case.
Previously we had today from the landscape that should feel, more likely to be in southern England than in Scotland, and this feeling is still strengthening. For now, we have visited the four small fishing villages, very close to each other that are and can be hardly different:
Crail is totally sleepy, we parked in a nice Avenue and are down to the harbour. Surprisingly (well, kinda does) there is local, and the port is tiny. But super nice of the houses (mainly stone houses) here! At a small stall, there’s fresh sea food and we get a lobster roll (double price of the crab roll, but the taste is really better), which we then eat in the Sun on the quay wall.
Anstruther is a bit of a shock in the face of the semi high-rise buildings when driving in first. Besides it is quite nice and the by far the largest and most touristic one place. There is a large Marina and many restaurants and shops on the promenade and in the village itself. Mostly old beautiful houses!
Pittenweem right next to it is the exact opposite: to be a Working Harbour with significantly less charm – but small enough, is there anything nice to always. To do this simply old – the old Quay wall, the old houses…
St Monans is again calm, but unlike Crail. The port is bigger and near even a windmill. Exciting also the old sea water swimming pool, which is in built in the sea.
Elie finally has actually no port, but a Bay with a sandy beach. And here is the ship Inn, where one West can – sit out right on the beach so perfectly for the Sun-Downer! Is also inside totally nice according to site, the rooms. As an idea for the next time!
On the promenade and an excellent dinner there went back after dinner in St Monans, Scotland to Dunfermline. You must probably do not necessarily see the place, but he is ideally close to Edinburgh on the other side of the Firth of forth, so the mouth (= Firth) of the river forth in the sea. We see from the place and the B & B is on two main streets, but spacious rooms and is nicely decorated.
A very comprehensive and good breakfast when it rains in the nicely furnished B & B and a chat with the Dutch guests at the table, as well as the hosts. Then it goes to North Queensferry to bridges photography, this is exactly why we have stayed at the Dunfermline: we wanted to famous morning photographically capture “Forth Bridge”. Unfortunately the weather was very limited.
Via the motorway and in the city’s went to the return of the car (temporal precision landing!) and then by bus to the city (caution: bus acquired day tickets entitle not to use the tram, vice versa at same price but – mega bias!) and we give the Luggage in our neighbourhood of Haymarkets in a great building area off.
On foot passing the Waterwalk along and Stockbridge now through the Nice neighborhoods in the Dean Village (great on houses located in a Green Valley River) and along the river Leith to Newtown. A great area of EDI with many small shops, nice local magnificent houses and cobbled streets. And a big one at that – that wants to be taken. Near the Center is then for example also the small Thistle Street and Frederick Street, we took our very fine afternoon CreamTea in the ‘eteaket’ tea room.
So strengthened it went to Calton Hill with the unfinished copy of the Acropolis on top, from which one has a great view of the city. There, we met also John Amoore and an acquaintance who told us a lot about the city, the statues and the administration building directly below the Hill. Very charming!
With the X 43 bus and our day ticket now went to South Queensferry on the other side of the mighty railway bridge. Over half an hour took the trip with jam and got off the train we are then at the railway station directly in front of the bridge. Walking it went down to the beach and great views to the dinner at the Hawes Inn. A direct hit! Cozy, medieval, large, great renovated, super nice set up and a good map with excellent food!
Finally the Sun went down and the bridge attracted illuminated to great night photos. It went back to the bus through the delightful town of Dalmeny, which motivates us to reach again extremely. Tip: in the evening Pier hotel (17 high street) with a view through the huge window on the illuminated Bridge take a Sundowner at the Orocco!
Back then was pretty empty 43 bus.
Before breakfast a beautiful morning has driven out at 6: 00 us and we are to foot marched in the old town and back. After breakfast in the B & B and again was in the city.
This time walking to the Arthur’s seat or below them along and continue until Duddingsten. This small place was described in the Guide as total love – he also Dr. Neil’s Garden, was nice but not soooo outstanding. Not to compare with the delightful South Queensferry. Once all around was back in the city, and then with the Green HopOn-HopOff-bus with the bus. This lasted because of many traffic jams over 90 minutes, but had a very entertaining live statement. After that we’ll again walk to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queen take pictures and have some tea.
Finally should go’s again to South Queensferry, which was difficult given the strange ticket policy of local public transportation: yesterday we had a day ticket (4 GBP) from the bus – which was not true for the tram, but we were able to get out to South Queensferry. Today, we had a day ticket (4 GBP) by a tram system, which should apply to trams and buses. But the driver of the 100 bus (the airport) refused to take us so. And we were not allowed in the first entry in the bus to South Queensferry, but would need to buy an additional ticket (2.60 GBP per person). Strange!
With a March through the city we have then caught 43 bus from the X and the driver explains, we would want to go anywhere in the vicinity. Went without any problems. Got out we are then back in Dalmeny, the railway station of South Queensferry. On foot, it went in the place (even in light lovely!) and then to dinner again at the Hawes Inn. We have then taken the train back – the ticket was P.p. 4.50 GBP. as the bus, but for that we were more expensive well over 40 minutes earlier in the quarter back. Perfect!
Nor final packing and off to bed, because the next morning it went back around 3:40 hrs out to our early flights to get to Vienna and Frankfurt.
At the end of two travel planning tips:
www.myhighlands.de by Stephan Goldmann gives great tips and personal insight. We had his travel guide “My Highlands – Isle of Skye” as a Kindle Edition with us and he was very helpful!
Unfortunately only after the trip, we have discovered www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk. Very exciting tips are – we knew some, most not.
We wish you nice wanderlust!
Finds of a trip
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